SUNAINA RANA
Kilroy’s of Kathmandu was quite a sensation when it opened in 1998. Thomas Kilroy, an Irish chef whose culinary skills pleased British royalties, the Clintons, and Margaret Thatcher, was equally successful in charming the palates of the Valley’s residents.
Once you negotiate the rather congested lanes of Thamel and enter Kilroy’s, the view from the glass panel of the large, impeccably neat kitchen and the chefs at work is deeply reassuring. The main restaurant on the first floor reaches out to its terraces and the spacious open courtyard at the ground level is decked with green plants and a cascading water fall. The rustic decor is warm and pleasant and tables spaced at a respectable distance from the other invite congenial conversation. The tandoor baked bread, meat, and daal at the ground floor offer an excellent alternative, but Kilroy’s reputation is built around its steaks, Anglo-European specialties, and a select collection of wines.
When we visited the restaurant last Saturday, the place was brimming with eager diners. But a full house also means orders take a little longer to arrive. So to kill time we ordered a bottle of French Beaujour rouge 2010, at Rs 2,045 and the pleasant waiter offered a complimentary plate of pakodas. The light red wine gave the three of us good company throughout our meal; the unfortunate fourth had to sacrifice the vino in order to drive us home.
The starter, char-grilled vegetables drizzled with olive oil and wine vinegar (Rs 285) could do with a more liberal ‘drizzle’ to go with the crusty crunch of warm bread that was marinated well with the baked ‘tarte tatin’ of tomato, mozzarella , and coriander pesto (Rs 390). Perhaps on account of the overworked chef, the sautéed prawns with garlic, ginger, and saffron sauce (Rs 600) and Cajun-Blackened Darne of Norwegian Salmon (Rs 925), made with spicy Creole jus, chili hot potatoes, re-fried onions, eggplant, and capsicum sounded better than they tasted. Unfortunately, the normally delicious Norwegian salmon and accompanying vegetables were doused in an overpowering brown sauce.
The seared breast of chicken stuffed with naks cheese in mushroom sauce (Rs 395) accompanied by creamy spinach and potato rosti, lived up to its claim of being ‘easily the most popular dish of the house’. But for our table of four the huge bowl of risotto (Rs 585) with a balanced mix of black trumpet mushrooms, white wine, and whipped cream, was by far the best choice. Robert Edward Desjardins, who now runs the restaurant in Kathmandu, told us that the Italian rice dish is a Thomas Kilroy specialty and it is prepared even now with utmost care and patience.
Satiated as we were, we simply could not resist the renowned lemon tart (Rs 250) and warm chocolate and orange fondant (Rs 250).
Kilroy’s merits a repeat visit, especially during its wine festival season which lasts from June to September.
How to get there: from Tridevi Marg in Thamel turn left down Jyatha Marg. Kilroy’s is down a well signposted alley on the left-hand side.