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Archive for the ‘Valley Sights’ Category


Bandh journal, 20/5/12

The tableau is all too famliar. You walk out into the streets at the end of the day, no longer marvelling at the incongruousness of a city of pedestrians on the move.

Too slim to sin

Facebook nostalgia for Old Nepal, which has us Like-ing countless images of rustic Nepal, all mud brick houses, undulating rice paddies and gleaming mountains, appeals mostly because of its contrast to the bristling present. But the more you yearn for Old Nepal, the more depressing the New Nepal of concrete and steel appears to be […]

Raining pots and pans in Chobhar

The pointless question of whether Our Man in Heavena is actually a Woman finds a very Nepali compromaij on one of the hillocks shading the cleft of Chobhar, where the Valley sheds its poison (in an offering to Jal Binayak that even his Father would find unpalatable). Turn right off the road to Taudaha and […]

Late-night Buddhas

We were on the way to a Patan pasni when we first saw them. Two huge Buddha busts on man-sized frames on the road leading to Mangal Bazaar, casually positioned by the side of a kirana store as if waiting for their mates to finish buying cigarettes and beer, c’mon it’s the weekend let’s go. […]

Hungry Eye – Kaiser Cafe, Thamel

It was Friday night, but early as we were, we had Dwarika’s Kaiser CafĂ© Restaurant & Bar almost wholly to ourselves. All the better to admire the simple, tastefully done two-storey building comprising outdoor and indoor seating. We were quickly ushered inside, installed next to a gas heater, furnished with menus, and left to admire […]

Kicking Kirtipur

It would appear that Kirtipur, the small town south-west of Kathmandu, has finally hit the big time. First it was the success of the community-run Newa Lahana that drew youth on motorbikes; then a series of festivals staged in the surrounds of the restaurant; and now it’s the five-day Kirtipur Mahotsav, the 2011 edition of […]

Planet Nepal down at earth

Despite the distractions of Jazzmandu, I made my way to Patan Durbar Square before Tihar to catch the first evening of the Planet Nepal dhamaka, simply because there seemed to be a lot going on in this city of not much going on most of the time. Music, installations, films, roundtables, and all for a […]