The trekking trails to Ghandruk and Ghorepani in the Annapurnas are surprisingly busy this season despite predictions of dismal tourist arrivals due to the April earthquake and ongoing Indian blockade.

With the Autumn trekking season in full swing, the lodges are occupied even though owners say visitor levels are lower than this time last year. Even getting a tourist bus out of Kathmandu to Pokhara is surprisingly easy despite the fuel crunch.

“This lodge would have been packed with tourists around this time, but the earthquake, and now the blockade, has hurt us badly,” said the owner of Super View Hotel in Syauli Bazaar.

With clear skies and stunning views of the mountains, November is probably the best month for tourists, international and local alike, to visit. The thin trekking traffic on the trails means tourist can enjoy their hikes more, and visiting Nepal is also a good way to help the economy devastated by the earthquake and blockade.

Text and photos by Ayesha Shakya

The steps to Ghandruk.

The beginning bit of the trek is the most steep.

Small lodges and restaurants are mostly empty.

Trekkers will come across many farmers harvesting this season’s rice.

Views of terraced fields are plenty along the trekking trail to Ghandruk.

Children perform deusi-bhailo songs en route to Ghandruk.

A trekker and a porter enter the gate to Ghandruk.

Morning view of Annapurna South and Himchuli.

The first rays of dawn on Machhapuchhre.

A woman sweeps the garden in Gurung Cottage in Ghandruk.

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