Kathmandu’s midrange restaurants have long been trying to capture the essence of American cuisine, a laudable endeavour when you consider what passes for a hamburger in lower-end eateries. One such place (which shall remain nameless) encrusts its patties with cornflakes before frying them on a skillet, and markets these as ‘crispy’. Terrifying.
Yes, in order to experience authentic Americana, you’re going to have to spend bigger bucks. But that doesn’t mean you have to turn to that intrepid multinational franchise—KFC—to get your kicks. American fast food, as much a comfort to expats and those who have worked or studied in the US alike, is being impressively rendered by local restaurants at a fraction of the Colonel’s prices. You just have to know where to go.
Southern Comfort, a restaurant that borrows its name (and, rather cheekily, its branding) from the sickly-sweet bourbon, is impressively filling this gap. The décor is tasteful and sophisticated (although devoid of what might have been a more appropriate, diner ambience), and on the day we visited, a lone waiter was all smiles and mashed potatoes – eager to make us feel as comfortable as possible.
We started with a snack of deep fried onion rings with a blue cheese dip (Rs. 150), and were immediately impressed. This is simple, honest, down-to-earth eating—but executed well and in very generous portions. In retrospect, we should have laid off a little here, as our gargantuan main courses proved something of a struggle to conquer.
Eschewing burgers for fried chicken, served Southern-style with smooth, creamy mash, sweet corn and vegetables (Rs. 450), we were suitably impressed, if defeated. Perhaps the chicken batter was a little too thick, cloying and oily, and the side of mushroom gravy worryingly gelatinous, but we were too busy indulging in the chicken we have so dearly missed during the bird flu outbreak to complain.
Our other main, a zucchini boat stuffed with a tomato and cucumber salsa, cheese and bacon, and served with rice and veggies (Rs. 400), was even more impressive, with a subtle spice permeating through its dressing and providing real contrast to the blander delights of the chicken dish. This main can also be ordered without the bacon, and as such would be highly recommended for vegetarians amid a largely carnivorous menu.
The best though was yet to come. We were offered refreshing, luminous crushed ice coolers—currently complimentary if you order a main dish—and, though stuffed, ordered the homemade apple pie with equally homemade ice cream (Rs. 270) to finish. I’d come back for this alone: perfect pastry, soft, gooey apples and just the right level of sweetness.
If you’re looking for good quality American dining that neither breaks the bank nor combines breakfast cereals with red meat, Southern Comfort is definitely well worth your time.
All portions are large, so make sure you go with an appetite to match, or leave with a doggy bag.
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How to get there: Southern Comfort is set slightly inward along Restaurant Road, Jhamsikhel, opposite Tamarind restaurant, and a stone’s throw from the Moksh complex entrance.