Nepali Times
Review
Rox at Hyatt


SOMEPLACE ELSE by Ruby Tuesday


PICS: PRAMOD SHRESTHA
A dining experience at the Hyatt is guaranteed to be one that is decadent, hedonistic, and always delicious. When you eat here, you are doing more than just feeding your stomach; you are reveling in delights that pander to all your senses. With the change in season, the Rox Restaurant, the hotel's signature outlet, has introduced a new menu which while retaining the perennial favourites, hosts a dazzling array of new items.

With its emphasis on quality and safety, the Hyatt boasts of being the only Hazard Analysis and Critical Control Point (HACCP) certified hotel in the country. And since there is no compromise on quality, it is to be expected that this excellence comes with a price.

We started our meal with the Spanish Garlic Soup (Rs 695), a thick creamy bowl of goodness that is nourishing and comforting and also very healthy. The taste of garlic is not overpowering, but manages to be a subtle essence that imbues the soup with flavour. It was the perfect start to the meal and a tantalising peek into the gustatory wonders that awaited us. The thick sweet delight of the Pan Seared Trio of Scallops with blue cheese (Rs 1,600) was so good that I wanted a whole plate filled with them.

At this point it would be fair to say that I had started salivating on just reading this item on the menu so my expectations for it were great. And the Blueberry Risotto with Smoked Duck Breast and Mascarpone Cheese (Rs 1,350) did not disappoint. A substantial amount of rice on which nestled these slices of sweet smokey and succulent duck breast with skin that had just the right amount of crackle and crunch to it, this I have to say is among the best risottos I have tasted in my entire life. The next dish to be plated up for us was the Wheat Pasta Napolitana with fresh basil (Rs 1300) which like it sounds was wholesome and healthy.

While there is nothing wrong with healthy, I was at Rox to groan in pleasure with each bite and the Himalayan Rainbow Trout with Sicilian ratatouille and butter caper sauce (Rs 1750) had me in moans of ecstasy with each bite. I am not a keen fish eater having been subjected to virulent attacks of food poisoning after eating said piscine but after this meal I have been eating fish everywhere I go. Like they say there is no greater devotee than she who has refound faith and food is my religion.

The Australian Lamb Shanks (Rs 2,100) come with the creamiest mashed potatoes (I do not want to think about the amount of butter in that) and rosemary jus. While the shanks were a little dry for me and thus chewy, the reduction of the sweet sauce for the jus was amazing. By this time my mind was saying no, but my body was telling me otherwise. This feast had to end on a sweet not and what notes they were.

The Mango Panna Cotta with almond snap (Rs 850) was suitably delicious but Rox has spoilt tiramisu from everywhere else for me forever. Because no tiramisu in this fine town of ours is going to come even close to the one they serve here. Dished up in a martini glass,the Classical Tiramisu (Rs 875) is an authentic mixture of mascarpone cheese and egg yolk layered alternatively with finger bread soaked in coco and amaretto liqueur topped with coffee powder and chocolate-coated almonds.

Rox is expensive, there is no denying that. It is also not somewhere I would go to often, for I can't afford it, but if you rich, why would you want to eat anywhere else? For the rest of us, it is perfect for a celebratory lunch or dinner where you want to go all out and splurge on a meal you'll be relishing and talking about for months. I did away with my rating system recently but if I hadn't, I would have awarded all ten 'forks' to executive chef Subrata Debnath. Well done, sir, well done.



1. ...fire burn and cauldron bubble
...hmmm they used to have a good beef steak too once upon a time.
..


2. Beefy Buff
For too long, the hairless water buffalos had always been the choice of meat forthehappy-go-lucky residents of this great metropolitan city ofKathmandu Valley. However,since the advent of democracy and subsequent announcement of Republican state,the proud residents of this valley have experienced a big change in their age-old way of thinking.The biggest change is seen in the area of lifestyle and choice of food. Once considered sacred, thecows have replaced water buffalos. They seem to care less whatthey do as long as theyget what they want. In other words, instant gratifications have been the norms.What is interesting is that the belief thatyou can't be modern unless you eatbeefseems to havedominated theirmindset.Along with the appetite, their values and beliefs have changed. Never before in the history of Nepal have weseen so much societal degration."Monkeys do what monkeys see," is clearly evident here."Well,people in rich nations eat beef, why can't we?" seems to be their logic.With that, beef hasbecome the choice of meat.In addition, eversince our national leaders (you know who, right?) have begun to consumedelicious beef steaks at Katmandu's 5-Starhotels,the price ofcattle has reportedlydoubled. But, you beef-lovers out there, there is no reason to get alarmed. Theunelected, Commie Govt of ourcountry has just approved tobuilda "Slaughter House" in the outskirt of Katmandu. The main objective of this project is to slaughter over a1,000 cows a day, so that thecow fleshnever runs out and is always available tothe richest and fatest segment of our society.According to a published report, the slaughter house has been hailed as one of the most significant and progressive projects ever initiated by this Commie Govt.Finally, we can relax and get busyripping the fruits ofrevolution. Bravo, Comrades!Ejnoy more beef! Eat your heart out; it's your time!

3. non believer
o wow. this comment thread clearly tell us that our country women and men have gone completely crazy.  a reviewer does not eat beef and still there is this whole verbal diarrhea about hindu cows being slaughtered and the moral decay in this country. i think beef eating is the last thing that is causing a moral decay.    

4. Flexible 1
Corrupt politicians, politicised teachers and schools, bandhs, impunity, caste discrimination, child labour, gender discrimination, tax evasion, all contributors to the deep, deep moral depravity that is Nepal.
Nice write up on the restaurant though.  


5. GG
I'm appalled previously now to beefy buff, what has gotten into this guys head? Cow's dung!



6. Flexible 1
GG 5 
Well spotted!
I thought the sentiment and rant were familiar.
I'm appalled at the gall of some commenters. 


LATEST ISSUE
638
(11 JAN 2013 - 17 JAN 2013)


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