MARCO POLO

Tukche Thakali Kitchen, the 15-year-old institution once in Darbar Marg, now in Lazimpat boasts a welcoming staff and a cordial ambience housed within an intimate dining hall and a wide patio. But behind the dimpled service is a dal-bhat dupery.

Regardless of the recipe, the custom of complimentary second helpings of bhat, dhedo, dal, aloo, saag, achar, gundruk, etc. reinforces dal bhat as the national mainstay. But at Tukche an extra charge for extra helpings on top of the already exorbitant Rs 300 (plus 10% and 13%) for a vegetarian 'mini thakali set' could only be rationalised by the establishment's seniority or an ostensible bid for higher quality.

'Elevating the local' isn't about elevating prices on quality de rigueur—unless we're elevating to higher altitudes, then steep charges are somewhat justified.

Down to the taste buds, Tukche's chicken curry in the non-vegetarian thali (Rs 325) is stewed to a fine balance between spice and viand; the black dal, thick and rich; the potato wedges, crisp on the edges and fork-tender; and the spinach, on par with homemade saag.

Dhedo, the buckwheat paste, paired well with the mutton curry set (Rs 375), which included portions of gundruk, the bitter dried spinach, pickled radish and chili. Soaking the ghee-basted staple into the red curry produces a savory experience similar to the spongy Ethiopian injera.

Tukche's Thakali table d'hôte (Rs 790 per person) includes a soupçon of apple brandy, appetizers, chicken and mutton curries with standard thali trimmings and curd for dessert. The sets at Tukche are standard but are preposterously priced.

Dal bhat is dal bhat is dal bhat.

On a budget? Consider nearby Tama or the multitude of other Thakali restaurants in Thamel, where the Nepali custom of thapnu or generous servings isn't compromised for the cost of good food.

Opposite the north end of the Narayanhiti Palace Museum, a couple of shops east of the Attic