In preparation for the spring mountaineering season that begins next month, we look back to this season last year through the pages of High Mountain Sports. There were significant accomplishments on major peaks, but the development to watch out for this coming season and in future, is undoubtedly the opening up nine new peaks partly into the last spring season, the first time the government has made such an announcement after the official start of the climbing season. Smaller peaks such as Gangchenpo in the Langtang Valley, and peaks around popular summits such as Manaslu are cheaper to climb, easy to get to and, most importantly, technically challenging.

Although the weather during the 2001 pre-monsoon season was more unsettled than normal, particularly during the first three weeks of May, there were a number of fine achievements and historic climbs on Nepal's mountains: The first ascent of the world's highest unclimbed summit, the first ascent of a hard new route on the 8,000 m giant Manaslu; an almost continuous traverse of the west to east traverse of Pumori which involved new ground climbed in pure Alpine style, many new records set on Everest and, sadly, the death of arguably the most famous Sherpa climber of recent times.

Are the climbers coming?
RAMYATA LIMBU

If officials at the trekking and mountaineering section of the Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation were hoping to recover losses in mountaineering revenue this spring, the picture doesn't appear too favourable. So far, less than a dozen teams have applied for permission to climb various mountains, mostly situated in the eastern region. The teams include an American and Indian expedition that have applied for permits to Everest. "But no one has paid the fees yet. Going by past trends, we should have received more than two dozen applications by now," says Ganesh Raj Khatri, undersecretary at the Ministry's mountaineering and trekking section. Khatri is hoping that the last two weeks of February, which he considers a crucial period, will see an increase in applications for the spring season that begins in March.

Despite expeditions bound for Makalu, Everest, Lhotse, Thamserku, and Ama Dablam this spring, expedition organisers expect a 50 percent decline in the number of expeditions to Nepal. "Since many of the teams climbing from Tibet usually pass through Nepal, we're expecting a ten percent decline there, too."

Still, Khatri, and the climbing business as a whole, are all hoping the current situation won't deter too many mountaineers. "Normally, the climbing community is more adventurous, they take more risks. We're hoping they are less spooked by current events and the law and order situation," says Khatri. "They're probably watching and waiting, too. And no one's cancelled, yet."

The trouble is, the post-monsoon 2001 season was not too great either, with only 48 teams attempting various peaks, and no expeditions to Everest. The number fell short of the average 60-65 expeditions that climb in the Nepal Himalaya every fall-in autumn 2000, there were more than 64
teams here.

The government has made quite an effort to cash in on 2002, which opens the Destination Nepal Campaign, and is the start of the 50thanniversary celebration of the first ascent of Everest, as well as the International Year of the Mountain. It has opened 103 new peaks, including 20 in the far-west, for which it is offering a 100 percent waiver on royalty from March 2002-2005. The government has also waived 75 percent of the royalty on 40 other peaks around the country for the same duration.

The government has also formulated a one-window policy, under the Ministry of Tourism, under which climbers don't have to pay separate fees for entering parks, filming, and trekking. Also, expeditions below 6,500 m are no longer required to be accompanied by liaison officers.

"The climbing regulations have been reviewed, and amendments meeting almost ninety percent of the demands of the international climbing community have been finalised and are awaiting approval from cabinet," says Khatri.

Expedition operators remain sceptical of government efforts. They say they will believe the government once the regulations are implemented. "So far, we haven't seen anything happening in practice. It's still not flexible," a major expedition operator told us.

And even if they are implemented, the changes aren't enough, some say. "The new regulations are not enough," says a Kathmandu-based expedition operator. "In normal times, it would be a real incentive for climbers. But if teams aren't coming to climb the major peaks now, how can we expect them to climb the new ones given the current situation. The government should follow Pakistan's example and reduce royalty by 50 percent on major peaks, including on Everest. That's the only way climbers will be tempted to come. "

Still, there is some good news. Contrary to past trends, the number of expeditions climbing in winter increased significantly, with seven teams attempting various peaks. And one team will be coming to climb this spring, despite the odds-that of Tashi Tenzing, grandson of Tenzing Norgay, and Peter Hillary, son of Edmund. The duo, who climbed Everest together in 1991, will be attempting the mountain again this spring with Yves Lambert, son of one of the climbers of the 1952 Swiss Everest expedition of which Tenzing Norgay was a member. They will be commemorating the 50th anniversary of the first historic climb of Everest on 29 May, 1953.