Trekking agencies are heartened that despite the troubles, the number of trekkers in Nepal has gone up in recent months. Tourists keen on adventure seem to be getting used to the Maoist insurgency. We have noticed that they are becoming increasingly confident about going to rural areas despite the Maoist presence, Bandinima Sherpa of the Trekking Agents Association of Nepal (TAAN), told us. That confidence is based on the fact that there has not been a Maoist attack against any tourist, at least not against those who have trekked with registered companies.

TAAN officials say most trekkers are comfortable paying donations upto Rs 1,000 to rebels as long as they are safe. In fact, they have begun to take the meeting with the rebels as a thrill factor. Speaking to gun-totting Maoists and getting the donation receipt from them seems to be exciting for many trekkers.

The government is not about to promote Maoism as a tourist attraction, but the Nepal Tourism Board says total arrivals of tourists increased by more than 45 percent in November compared to last year. On average the arrivals have gone up by 20 percent in the last 11 months though official statistics do no specify the kind of tourists coming to Nepal.

Trekking agencies say they had more clients than expected in November. Our members have reported to us that they have been handling more and more trekkers, says Deepak Mahat, president of TAAN. Business is definitely up. Trekkers and expeditioners comprise more than 30 percent of the total tourist arrivals to Nepal. After registering a record arrival of nearly 500,000 tourists in 1999, the tourism industry had witnessed drastic decline to 215,000 last year.