Fatima Younoos is 62 but she is still poking needles into four dozen patients a day. This tireless acupuncturist has steadily gained a reputation as a healer and her clinic, Hua Tho, is crowded with patients. "This is not my business but my life," says Fatima who runs the centre with her son, Jamal Younoos, a medical doctor.

Part-Nepali and part-Chinese, Fatima has studied Tibetan herbal medicine which concentrates on enhancing spiritual goodness, and

Chinese acupuncture. The knowledge of both has enabled her to help patients heal naturally without side effects. "People think acupuncture is a painkiller but in Chinese medicine, we say it is like a tree, we check both the inside and the outside. It is not about killing pain but long-term healing," she says.

"I've always had foreign patients but Nepalis have slowly opened up to acupuncture," adds Fatima, "Now, even pani-puri wallas come here." But unlike airfares within Nepal, foreigners and Nepalis both pay the same for treatment. Explains Fatima: "The first thing you learn in Chinese acupuncture class is to treat all patients equally."

There are 12 different lines in the body according to Chinese acupuncture and these help find the problem and its cure, which involve skilful and specific use of needles. "The cure for a disease differs from person to person according to its origin. It's like road traffic, you need to check the jam, open up the clog and then make the system stronger. Eighty to 90 percent of the people I have treated have got better," she adds.

Fatima says she has never stopped learning. And everyone is amazed at her energy and youthfulness. "The answer is simple: I love my work and it keeps me in shape," she says, "I learn a lot from each patient, they are my real teachers."

Abha Eli Phoboo