"All tourists are welcome," reads a Maoist notice at Ghorepani. Written on the walls with red ink, the message hints that the Maoists may have stopped collecting Rs 1,000 'war tax' from tourists. Trekkers have returned to Ghandruk, Tadapani, Ghorepani in the Annapurna circuit. Things are taking a turn for the better since the Maoists stopped their extortion and the army halted security activities. Although the figures are still quite low (200 visitors daily compared to 500 in previous years) there is still an air of optimism here. Locals, however, are still not off the hook. Maoists are still targetting local hotels and lodges, many have been forced to pay up or leave. Teachers and government staff have to donate part of their salaries and the hoteliers have to pay Rs 10,0000 every year for the revolution. Even small tea-shops are not exempt.