PICS: MARCO POLO

Chinatown has a new address and at its heart is a hole in the wall that is easy to miss.

If you're lucky to chance upon Chongqing Fast Food in Thamel (hint: the sign above it refers to a different city due east), don't be discouraged by the failing plastic swivel chairs, the saccharine posters of Caucasian toddlers or the Chinese-only-speaking service.

Take a seat if you can find one and if Mandarin isn't your forte, point for the picture book and poke fun all you can at curious translations of Chinese dishes like 'Spicy The Fish', 'Meat to Cook Lunch' or 'And Pulled a Red Leather' because before you know it you'll be coming back week after week for the most authentic and by far the tastiest north of the border cuisine in Kathmandu.

Ku�izi! (chopsticks) For set meals the Double Fried Pork Slices, fried bacon, or the Kung Pao Chicken, diced chicken, vegetables and peanuts, served with bottomless rice are reliable lunch values at Rs 140 each (don't be offended, plated sets are meant to come with a spoon).

F�w�yu�n! (waiter) Better yet, schmooze with a stranger and go � la carte or family-style dining. Favored sharing dishes include the sweet and sour pork slices (Rs 380) or the pork with saut�ed agarics, a wobbly 'wood-ear' fungus that holds a slight crunch (Rs 320).

M�l�! (lit. 'numbing and spicy') The pairing of huājiāo, or Sichuan pepper similar to the Nepali timur, and chili pepper is a cold-cock combination and a key ingredient in the traditional Sichuan m� l� hot pot. Try the beef or pork variety at Rs 300. But fools beware! Hot pot is not a soup to be sipped, but a fishing bowl for eager ku�zi.

M�p� d�ufu! (spicy tofu) For not so meat, not so veg, try the mapo tofu, the popular Sichuan dish of beancurd set in a bean-based sauce and bright red suspension and finely minced pork.

Chī s�! (lit. 'eat non-meat food') For vegetarians Chongqing Fast Food is a savory den. Go with my personal favourite, the stir-fried green beans ganbian siji dou (Rs 140), long green beans married with that same tingling pearls of huājiāo. Other Chinese vegetables are available perfect with a bowl of steamed short-grain rice like bok choy and water morning glory (misspelled as 'quick fried mater convolvulus', if in season).

Mĭf�n! (rice) Rice is calculated by person at Rs 30. So thapnus to your belly's desire; regulars usually refill themselves.

Măidān! (bill) The year-old Chongqing Fast Food makes a mockery of highbrow establishments in Thamel. Its frill-free setting doesn't deter its generous servings of Sichuan and Chongqing specialties at an affordable bill.

A few shops north of Chikusa, look for red and blue columns, opposite the Utse Hotel in Thamel