PICS: MARCO POLO

After I relished in Sol's fanciful imports at the wine and cheese at Caf� Mitra last weekend, it seemed like things couldn't taste any better. Then again, extending Kathmandu's fork reach into artisan idylls like Parma and Brie requires only a cultivated palate and seed money or the superhuman dexterity of Mr. Fantastic; but how one dishes out these exquisite delicacies is a feat matched by no other than only a master chef like Grill Me's Mohit Rana. The latest in Rana's repertoire, the newly opened Grill Me in Jhamel is promisingly his best.

Grill Me isn't about breaking new ground. Although some pairings maintain the oohs and aahs like the Norwegian Salmon Steak with coffee barbecue sauce or the Jamaican Jerk Burger with orange, pimento mayo, Rana leaves behind most of his experimenting at Mitra and keeps Grill Me all about quality and execution.

As its name evokes, Grill Me is a carnivore's den. Vegetarians are limited to the fresh mozzarella tomato confit and the tofu burger. The hunks of mozzarella stacked between sweet sun-dried tomatoes, tamarillos and basil demonstrate the richness in simplicity. A glance of its forthcoming menu reveals a mushroom crepe in the works apart from a grilled duck with guava barbecue sauce, shrimp bisque, and a North Carolina pulled pork sandwich�all fit for a second review.

Finally � Kathmandu becomes a worthy contender on the international burger tour. Grill Me's tenderloin burger is, pardon my patois, phat ('with a ph') and is still cheaper than a six-dollar burger. Cooked medium, as ground beef should, the juicy mound is wedged in a buttery sesame bun and topped with bacon that cuts no corners, evenly melted cheese and crisp, fresh trimmings. The hefty sandwich, by far the largest in the valley, demands a two-hand-to-mouth maneuver that fails to tire.

But the tailgate doesn't end there. Fat-in and coddled by a sweet potato mash with a trace of mesquite (unlike no other), its pork chops are exceptional to the bone.

For dessert Rana outdoes himself with the Coconut Panna Cotta casing the tropical fruit in a delectably creamy concoction heightened by a mango, orange coulis.

A more comprehensive critique would speak about the restaurant's blue accents and aged wood and the
grey-washed setting but it's all icing. Grill Me is about food.

Proceed towards the Moksh complex, skip the driveway and visit its newest neighbour instead