MARCO POLLO

Not quite thukpa, not quite ramen, pho (fuh) is a Vietnamese hotpot that has fast become an affordable and reliable fixture in the global kitchen. Luckily, Kathmandu has jumped on the pho wagon with the five-month-old Upstairs Cafe in Maharagunj, where Xiebao Uy and her husband Dol Saru ladle out bowls of the steamy staple. Uy, a Ho Chi Minh native, adds new terms to the city's gastronomical lexicon:

Banh m� Viet sandwich. Probably the only good that came out of French colonialism in Southeast Asia, the marriage of a crusty baguette with slices of roast pork, pickled carrots, julienned cucumbers and sprigs of mint, christened with pate, is a tasty vestige of Indochine.

Ca phe sua (oa). Unique to Vietnamese cafe culture, the coffee concoction is presented in a filter contraption that slow drips dark roast into a gooey layer of sweetened condensed milk, served iced or hot. Upstairs's rendition could be a few beans stronger.

Che oeu xanh. Upstairs unfortunately holds back on the rich dessert offerings from Vietnam, but this sweet mung bean coconut milk soup serves a mellow lining to the tongue-punching cuisine. Other options of cr�me caramel flan and fruits are toothsome diversions.

Goi cuon. A must order, the summer roll is a handheld appetizer made from rehydrated rice paper stuffed with Vietnamese basil, cooked shrimp, salad and fresh veggies served with a sesame-peanut dipping sauce.

Goi hoa chuoi. Banana hearts, common in Southeast Asian dishes, are a meat alternative with a texture comparable to the artichoke. A lovechild of the Chinese chicken salad and Malaysian yee sang, the banana flower salad at Upstairs tosses strips of grilled chicken with crispy vegetables and steamed banana hearts drizzled with a sweet and tangy dressing.

Pho. The quintessential Vietnamese meal, phở consists of rice noodles, lime, bean sprouts and basil or mint churned in a clear consomm�. Upstairs offers beef, chicken and vegetarian pho, but trumps with its duck special.

Syon heo rim. A house specialty, the caramelised pork ribs make Upstairs worthy of a weekly standard dine out.

Head 100 meters north from the US Embassy, turn right into the first alley and climb Upstairs.