One of the pioneers of the Jhamel scene, Sing Ma Food Court has remained resolutely uncool through the years. Despite refraining from venturing into the upmarket dinner and drinks segment, however, this purvetor of Singaporean-Malay fare is thriving. Unlike many of the other trendy restobars that litter Jhamel, Sing Ma is never empty, and has even opened a branch in Bhatbhateni.

The reason is simple. What Sing Ma sacrifices in ambience it more than makes up for with its rapid service and cheap and delicious food. With a range of rice, roti and noodle combos available for Rs 150-250, Sing Ma redefines the notion of fast food in Nepal, and challenges the dullards who subsist on what passes for chowmein and fried rice here to open their senses to the street cuisine of the dragon city.

This cuisine is a reflection of Singapore itself, where Chinese, Malay and Indian cultures combine in what the hawkers serve up. Sing Ma tries its best to encompass that range. The result can be disorienting, as you dip a Malay-style roti into a rich, Indian-inflected gravy, take a luscious bite of tender Rendang fillet, slurp up some Cantonese fried noodles, and clear your sinuses with a fiery dose of Tom Yam soup. Before you dive into culinary confusion, I recommend the comfortingly momoesque pork Cha Siew Mae, which in its savoury sweetishness turns out to be something altogether. Sing Ma also does an excellent job of incorporating vegetables and tofu into its dishes rather than as token sides. The brinjal and tofu combos work very well, and you'll have no problems finishing your greens when they come in the form of crunchy, stir-fried pak choi.

In lieu of beer, I suggest you wash this all down with an iced sour plum juice, and if you still have space, Sing Ma does a good selection of cheesecakes, too.

Nepali Kukur
Past the Fire Engine Station on Jhamel's Restaurant Lane, opposite New Orleans, also at Bhatbhateni.
www.singmafoodcourt.com

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