BIKRAM RAI

What would happen if one could live on sugar, and sugar alone? The whole of the Kathmandu Valley would converge on Jhamel's Caf� Hessed and demand doughnuts and cake until supplies or the Korean proprietors' reserves of 'hessed' � roughly translated from the Hebrew as grace or compassion � gave out.

Fortunately I was able to restrain myself from ordering one of everything. It helped that as we stepped into the light, cleanly furnished interior, with walls adorned with charming line drawings, the trays below the counter hadn't yet filled up. Without an array of doughnuts running circles around us (we were informed they would make an appearance at 10.30am), it was easier to settle for cupcakes and coffee. I chose a perfectly dusted Tiramisu, my friend went for a chocolate cake with what I thought was an excessive whorl of dark cream on top.

Now if you're looking for real Tiramisu, this is not it, but a yummy, light cupcake remix. The chocolate was uneventfully reassuring, but the coffees were more intriguing. Both the iced and hot Green Tea Lattes were superb � the creamification of the distinctive flavour of green tea has to be one of the more successful caf� trends of the last few years. Watch out if you think your Caramel Macchiato needs a supplementary sugar cube or two though, and I'd recommend the Pumpkin Latte only for the adventurous.

By this time the doughnuts were being laid out, tray by tray. For those accustomed to our chiya pasal ko doughnuts, Hessed is a revelation. Take your pick from rows upon rows of doughnuts glazed with dark and white chocolate (with multi-coloured sprinkes), doughnuts armed with choco-chips, strawberry jam-filled doughnuts, and more. I could only look on, wondering if I might turn diabetic within the day, but finally asked for one. All things considered, it was fairly light, in stark contrast to the greaseballs that masquerade as doughnuts in the aforementioned teashops, and perfectly executed. Prices are reasonable too, at Rs 45-55 per piece, compared to other 'fancy' coffeeshops about town.Most of what's at Hessed is consistently good rather than exceptional, which probably suits cupcakes and doughnuts just fine.

Hessed's ideal for coffee dates, or simply to bring your laptop and work without the distraction of restobar tastes in music. Hang on, I think my sugar rush has faded. It's time to reach into that takeaway box.

Towards the near end of Jhamel's Restaurant Lane, on the right before New Orleans.