Back to the outskirts of Jhamel to a restaurant that preceded it. Jalan Jalan has been around for a while, surviving a change of management while boosting its prices somewhat. But it still manages to serve up a whole range of cuisines in a quiet, cool setting with a view of the Valley.

For a hot summer's afternoon, then, I'd recommend the Lemon and Mint Tea. A wonderfully refreshing combination � why hasn't anyone else thought of it, just sticking to one or the other? And continuing with the summery theme, a Teriyaki Beef Salad hits the spot. The portion and presentation impressed, though perhaps they could have been more generous with the dressing. The steamed Vietnamese Spring Rolls in rice paper, too, were a far cry from the deep-fried fiends beloved of your neighbourhood joints. Crunchy and encouragingly healthy (in stark contrast to the curiously red Malay Fried Potatoes), they must have been disappointed with the bland dip they were offered.

When it comes to mains, though, Jalan Jalan is fulsome enough. I've found its sauces and gravies to be rich in taste, and more importantly, variable. Most of the dishes I've tried here have been well presented and imaginatively put together. The Kewebcut Chicken stuffed with spinach, cottage cheese, and carrots and the Chicken Saute with Lemon Walnuts are cases in point, and the Pork Coins with Honey pay you back for what you shell out.

So now for something completely different, I thought, as we ordered the Mole Poblano, waving away the warnings of the waiter that this was 'halka guliyo'. They met the challenge superbly, even if the rich sauce was (probably for my sake) not as chocolatey as the Mexican original. There were even hints of Rogan Josh in its tomato tang!

Jalan didn't quite finish the job. The Apple and Walnut Tart seemed tired (or simply old), relying on a scoop of vanilla ice-cream to get through the day. Next time I'll just have the ice-cream.

Nepali Kukur

Instead of heading down the driveway to Summit Hotel, turn your back on it. Jalan Jalan awaits.

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