KIRAN PANDAY |
"Between Italy and Pokhara, I would honestly choose here," says Basanta Gautam, owner of Caffe Concerto. Having travelled to Italy several times, Gautam admits it's Pokhara's mountain and lake vistas that compel him to stay. "Here, you can see the mountains clearly almost anywhere. Where else do you get that," he asks. As a Singaporean myself, I couldn't agree more.
Yet Lakeside's immense popularity has put other parts of Pokhara in the shade. Yes, there's plenty more, I was told. Seeking new thrills, I headed down to the much neglected Begnas Tal to the east of Pokhara. It's a blessed reminder of how Phewa itself must have been before the modern age, and how nature doesn't just mean mountains in Nepal. A lovely boat ride instilled in me a deep sense of serenity, away from the hustle and bustle of city life. Try fishing if you will. There's not much else to do, thankfully.
Then there was the Bat Cave further up north. Although it can get a tad claustrophobic, the bats were friendly hosts, and kept a safe distance during the tour. The Peace Pagoda, too, offers an alternative to punishing week-long treks. Just southwest of Lakeside, the pagoda itself is no great shakes, but the one to two hour walk to the vantage point over the city across from the Annapurna mountain range is well worth it.
There's yet more. If you can possibly tear yourself away from that trekking map while sitting over a beer listening to reggae along Lakeside, you won't regret it. Pokhara is a destination unto itself. Have you really experienced it yet?
Gurkha Memorial Museum
A small exhibition showcasing the trials and tribulations of the noble and fierce Gurkha soldiers that offers insightful stories of untold acts of bravery and sacrifice. Some ex-Gurkha soldiers can be found on the compound, and will be more than happy to share some tall tales.
Natural History Museum
Sure there is the new Mountain Museum that everyone is talking about. But the Natural History Museum, one of Pokhara's oldest, hosts the largest (probably only) collection of butterflies in Nepal, and local wildlife is represented by preserved specimens.
Tashi Ling Tibetan Village
Pokhara has a sizeable Tibetan community. Tashi Ling Tibetan Village is south of the main city centre in Pardi, where you will find lots of small shops selling Tibetan handicrafts. If time is not a factor the Tibetan Village in Hyangja is highly recommended, where you can visit the carpet factory to see how Tibetan carpets are made or just spend some time at the large Gomba.
Binda Basini Temple
You aren't a Pokhreli if you haven't spent a weekend afternoon near this temple with your date. Drive by Nala Mukh to soak in a little bit of Newari-pan.
Mailiko
Visit Maili Didi for the best thakali khana in, dare we say, all of western Nepal. Despite Pokhara being one of the better organised cities in Nepal, we are going to make you work hard to find it because we don't want Maili Didi to be overwhelmed. North from Fishtail Gate near a chautara. Ask anyone.
Open House
Despite losing its charm due to a failure to deal with wear and tear over the years, this cafe in Mahendra Pul is still a favourite among local teenagers and those unable to come to terms with their age. We hear their milkshakes are still pretty good.
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