PICS: RUBY TUESDAY

There are restaurants you love for what they offer in terms of their food and then there are restaurants you love for their ambience, fine service and 'hangoutbility', despite their lack of excellent food. Lorry's firmly falls into the second category.

Lorry's has been open now for three months and has managed to get people talking about it in a short time- which is essential for any business to succeed. It's telling that most good reviews concerning Lorry's are about the friendly atmosphere, non-judgmental staff and little nooks that afford privacy and not the food.

The menu cannot be faulted. Concentrating on Italian, Mexican and Continental cuisines, it tried not to fall prey to the malaise that so many other restaurants fall victim to- trying to please every patron who walks through the doors. That's what I was admiring about Lorry's until the kind waiter offered me another 'Day Menu', one that featured momos and chow mein and dal bhat thalis and everything else in between. On seeing my dismay, he explained that this special menu catered to professionals who walked in for lunch and complained about not understanding the 'complicated' dishes on the regular menu and had to have their staple fare.

Lorry's menu is delightful and not in the least bit complex. Easily laid out with a brief description of each dish, it makes ordering your meal a breeze. We decided on the BBQ Pork (Rs 300) and Potato Skins (Rs 250) with a sour cream dip to start with. The BBQ pork was quite disappointing to look at- charred chunks of pork on a plate already had me skeptical about my order. But though the meat had undergone enthusiastic and prolonged grilling, the taste was exquisite. Smoky, succulent and moist, the scorched bits actually provided a nice texture and the sauce � mmm the sauce. They make it fresh at Lorry's and it is delicious.

The potato skins, on the other hand have a little too much going on. The skins themselves were fried so deep that they were dry and tasteless and the bean sauce was so copious that it drowned out all other flavours. The fact that they came garnished with little bits of shriveled and wizened chili bits did not help in making a good impression either.
I wanted to be kind and non-judgmental and was hoping that Lorry's would deliver on their promise of serving wholesome delicious food so I wouldn't walk away disappointed, for an aggrieved and hungry reviewer tends to get caustic.

The Bistecca Al funghi (Rs 550) - 200 grams of grilled tenderloin topped with a cream mushroom sauce with a side of pasta in fresh tomato sauce- elevated my mood considerably. Though the meat was overcooked and thus chewy (asking the customer how they'd like their meat- medium, rare or well done- would be a good idea), the sauce was sublime. With just the right amount of creaminess and a smooth consistency, it was definitely the saving grace of the meal. The tomato sauce on the pasta too was a surprise. None of that pre-packaged canned stuff at Lorry's- the sauce is fresh with a lingering taste of fresh herbs and a hint of dry oregano.

Lorry's is still very young and has aspects of a good restaurant- uncluttered, simple d�cor, unobtrusive staff, good music, clean restrooms, extensive bar. If it works on improving the quality of food and maintaining consistency, Lorry's has the potential to become a favourite among Kathmandu's fine-food loving patrons.

Once in Jhamsikel, Lorry's is about 100 metres past St Mary's School's north gate.