Dining on a terrace in Thamel is as clich�d as the district's nightly cover bands, and views are usually limited to water tanks and electric cables. The Heritage Kitchen and Bar, despite a less than extraordinary view of Narsingh Chowk and surrounding trekking offices, offers an inviting interior and an escape from the hodgepodge of the tourist hub.

On a rooftop built around a dya chen or a family temple, The Heritage alludes to Newari culture with its black and red tablecloths and emphasis on the building's traditional architecture. But a flip through its menu recalls someone else's heritage certainly not Newari, let alone Nepali. Vegetarian or non-vegetarian thali and momos at the bottom right corner defer to top-page offerings like beef goulash and chicken roulade�"Hungarian and French respectively.

Here's what enticed our hungry bellies: the mushroom stuffed artichoke; paella, the quintessential Spanish rice dish and the panna cotta. The 'Heritage crispy chicken and chips', which sounds like a house specialty, isn't worth a rant or rave.

For starters quartered artichoke hearts crowned with minced mushroom, chili, garlic and green onion made for a savory delicacy.

For the main dish we ordered paella, which is like a biryani, but saffron-infused with full pieces of meat and/or seafood (bones, shells and all) and is served in a wide shallow pan inviting forks and fingers from every angle. Heritage prepares chicken, seafood or vegetable paella, while the more typical mixed version is absent from the menu. As listed, the seafood paella features Arborio rice (a short Italian grain used best for risotto, also available on the menu), mussel, calamari, shrimp, bhekti fish and octopus (we couldn't find a slither or tentacle of octopus, unless The Heritage doesn't distinguish between mollusks). All in all, the rice was slightly al dente, as it should be, and the seafood cooked evenly. A spoonful of paprika and a pitcher of sangria would be the perfect companions for the dish.

For dessert the panna cotta, a conspicuous blob of cream and gelatin drizzled with a raspberry sauce, provided a deceivingly smooth and sapid end.

Prices and service at The Heritage are standard for high-end dining in Thamel, and the overall experience was equally fair.

Stand in Narsingh Chowk in Thamel, face southward and look up to the left