Stepping into Chikusa Coffee Shop in Thamel is like stopping by a neighborly den in the boroughs, where regulars read the morning rag and kvetch about life, while sipping on large cups of hot, local drip.

The former Japanese caf�, established in 1998, specialises in 'real coffee', breakfast items and pressed sandwiches�all made to order behind a narrow, diner-like bar straight out of an Edward Hopper painting. Bottles of American maple syrup and extra-large 'Super Dad' mugs line the shelves that yield a homespun charm, where all that's missing is a white-topied carver yelling out orders at full bass.

Every plate, prepared in plain sight, is just plain good. No green eggs and ham, the ham and eggs (as you like it) are a savory side that compliments any of the sweet, back-menu treats, including crepes, waffles and real flapjack pancakes topped with sliced bananas and syrup. The only drawback is that substitutes can't be made for items in the fixed breakfast sets (Chikusa and English), and sides like baked beans and sausages can't be ordered separately.

The sandwiches are pockets of bliss served on thick toast sliced right on the spot. Whether you opt for tuna and ham, tomato and cheese or the egg salad�the variations are endless and made either hot in a cast-iron press, cold or on a half-open sandwich.

"Tired of Nescafe?" The sign hanging outside Chikusa recalls days where the only fix in town came in individual-sized, instant packs. Thankfully, those dry, dreary days are gone. Chikusa drips local, Nepali beans, freshly ground by the cup, mug or pot. And even its ice cubes are chilled from a batch of brew to prevent a watered-down cold coffee beverage.

In the last decade, an evident coffee culture has emerged in Kathmandu, dominated by franchised pleather seats; whipped, sugared frappes and soundtracks on repeat. Luckily, Chikusa's sign, however dated, reassures us that the real essence of the 'coffee shop' isn't dead.

Jog south from the Moroccan Consulate and look for "Real Coffee!" under the Lhasa Guesthouse