MARCO POLLO

Daring excursions into Thamel likely begin and end at OR2K, a waterhole for witty wanderers constantly pondering the ultimate question, 'What to do in Kathmandu?' As a figurative trading post on the trekker's trail and a Lonely Planet top pick, OR2K attracts travelers of all shapes and sizes from flashpackers, stoked hippy folk and WiFi mongerers.

But down to the milk and honey, OR2K (an acronym half in Hebrew that translates into 'light to Kathmandu') is a Zion for vegetarians serving only a wide selection of veggie dishes as diverse as its clientele and specialties in Middle Eastern and Israeli flavors.

Unless you're looking to stare at your meal and take in a beautiful presentation void of flavor, avoid the stuffed vegetable combination (Rs 395) that promises stuffed capsicum, mushrooms and tomatoes topped with goat cheese, yellow cheese and paneer. It's an aesthetic, bland mess.

Instead break bread with warm focaccia and naan and dip into the OR2K combination platter (Rs 395), an all-around genuine degustation of the Middle East in bowls of hummus, thaini, labane, babaganesh, matbucha, falafel and Israeli salad. If you're flying solo, don't fret, there's a small combo platter at Rs 230.

Alternatives like the 2K pizza, the pumpkin soup and the OR2K health salad are equally generous and satiating. Wash it all down with fresh mint lemonade, a perfect refresher, and end with a Kiss from Zuri, a delectable cheesecake-chocolate confection.

Seating is plenty (but often packed) and shoes-off and on the floor, redolent of a Yemeni mafraj or rooftop lounge. Described as the insides of a hippy's knapsack or a child's fantasy tree house, the interior is decked from floor to ceiling with glowing (for a literal light fest come for dinner) illustrations that make magic realism a stitch too real.

Fittingly enough, OR2K has a second branch on Kao San Road, the hippy haven and tourist hub of Bangkok--a fact that speaks volumes.

Coming from Thamel Chowk turn right into Mandala Street at Sagarmath Bazaar, then right and up the first set of steps.