MARCO POLLO

Jhamel finally keeps it simple: chicken. Amid the fancy fare of courtyard dining along the upscale eatery row, the five-month-old Peri Peri is a spinoff from Nando's, a famed casual franchise operating in 30 countries, and is fast becoming Kathmandu's premier purveyor of poultry.

From chicken nuggets, livers and wings to wraps, pitas and plain-old, plated chicken, the menu is almost entirely, exclusively chicken. There's no going wrong.

Whether shredded, quartered, halved, or whole, every serving of its legendary Portuguese-Mozambican barbecue is marinated for 24 hours, char-grilled then lathered in a tangy concoction with just the right amount of kick. Tempered according to your buds' requirements, the dipping sauces, straight from South Africa, make up a matchbook of lip-smacking heat and tartness: mainly lemon and herb, medium, hot and extra hot.

Cutlery is provided, but is readily ditched for a hands-on, mouth-slobbering feast fit for a medieval court. Large helpings of spicy rice, reminiscent of Cajun pilaf, or fries compliment the carnage.

The full platter meal, a whole chicken with one large side, is more than ample for a small family of four, running a fair Rs 900 (surcharges excluded). And a bottle of brew falls mid-level on the Beer Index at Rs 280 for a San Miguel.

If you're looking for a good wrap or pita, head to Chick 'N' Felafel in Thamel instead for a tastier and more filling version at Rs 190. The occasional bone or cartilage in Peri Peri's shredded pita with cheese (Rs 340) made for an unappetizing surprise.

But for a well-cooked and flavourful chicken spread in a cozy environment, roost yourself at Peri Peri's where all that's missing is a complimentary bib.

Facing the Army Camp entrance in Jhamel, do an about-face, and the chicken marks the spot.