Nepali Times
Review
Bhumi Restaurant and Bar

SOMEPLACE ELSE by NEPALIKUKUR


Much like some of our students, entrepreneurs would love to get first dibs at the questions diners ask of their establishments. Too often they flounder about, tinkering with the 'de's and 'du's of their names and mimicking the decor, cutlery, menus, and ultimately the prices of their more upmarket counterparts. But there is a simple formula that often works with the Nepali out and about in the Kathmandu night: elevate the local.

Your average Nepali youth likes his meat and drink, preferably together. But he may want to partake of the staples of the bhatti (and home) in slightly more convivial surroundings. Overwhelm him with continental interpretations, and he'll plump for the momos. Drown him in beer, and he'll wish for something more substantial. Bhumi, with its earthy decor, welcoming open spaces and long tables customised for large parties (with obligatory beer garden), serves up excellent Newari cuisine backed by Indian mains. It seems to have the got balance just right.

Bhumi takes its Newari seriously, unlike so many specialty restaurants that have so little faith in their mains that they toss in sukuti, momos and chicken chilli as the afterthought that will keep their business alive. With lungs, bone marrow as well as great sekuwa and chwoela on offer, Bhumi goes the whole buff. For the less carnivorous, there's good samay baji sets and I'd recommend the crunchy, peppery Aloo Timur too. Food is served in attractive brass bowls and plates, with the inevitable effect of, yes, elevating the local.

The bara and chatamari variations will ground your drinking where the meat does not. But if you fancy a full meal after an array of snacks, peruse the variety of North Indian mains available, including decent Tandoori chicken. Order early to get there before the rest of the weekend crowd, and on Valentine's Day, don't even bother.

Coming up Lazimpat, pass Bluebird department store on your right and look out for the signboard indicating the short lane leading into Bhumi.



LATEST ISSUE
638
(11 JAN 2013 - 17 JAN 2013)


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