BIKRAM RAI

I hate to generalise, but Thamel's charms have faded somewhat for me. This is less to do with the plethora of establishments that populate it than the noisy, narrow streets infested with peddlers of all varieties. Truth be told, Thamel has long ceased to be the place for food. But one shouldn't generalise, after all. Quite apart from fancy new bars, there are still a few unexplored corners worth dropping into. The problem with the delightfully named Newa de Caf� is that you might end up staying the whole night there while the party you came down for runs its course across the street.

Let's be clear, this is no boutique purveyor of Newari tidbits. The straight-up table-and-chair on concrete tableau will earn no accolades for 'ambience', either. But for the range of its snacks and the value of money it offers, Newa is a real haven within the overpriced milieu of the tourist district, and it's a few cuts above your average bhatti in terms of fare, service, and hygiene.

Maheshwor Dai and his boys are happy to serve up the usual fried rice et al, if the usual is what you want. But it's the unusual that intrigues.

Tongues, lungs, marrow and brain, stewed or fried, accompany heartier fare in the form of baras, as well as juicy sekuwa, fiery sukuti, spreads of samay baji, and tart tama. Offal is a staple of Newari cuisine, although it is yet to be more widely accepted. But if your average Nepali doesn't blink when faced with a plateful of fried intestines or liver, why stop there? Jibro tareko (fried tongue) is slightly chewy but goes wonderfully with a squeeze of lemon; phokso (lungs) are crunchy and soft when done just right; and the creamy texture of tishyo (bone marrow) is unique. It's more difficult to describe the taste of these buffalo parts without counterparts from other animals, but save for the tongue, they are neither dark nor strongly flavoured.Perfect for the adventurous non-Newar.

If you look beyond the beer then you'll find aila works doubly well at a fraction of the price, and if your spirit quails then try mixing with lemon soda. I hereby dub thee Cocktaila.

Newa is also happy to cater for anyone deterred by the cost of providing for those fussy things called events. That is, if your invitees can be cajoled into sampling aila over Red Label, baras over roomali rotis, and buff chwoela over chicken manchurian. I know I would.

Nepali Kukur

Coming into Thamel, pass Kathmandu Guest House on your left and stop short. Newa's at the back of the open area next to the gate.