Nepali Times
Travel
Zen and the Art of Mountain Motorcycling

ALOK TUMBAHANGPHEY


There's one thing from the Age of the Hippie that still has a local fan following in Nepal. And no, it isn't a mind-altering substance, but the cult of the motorcycle, specifically, the Enfield. This weekend, the Himalayan Enfielders, a group of Enfield enthusiasts, has brought together some 30 dedicated Enfielders for a weekend of mountain motorcycling, vrooming up to Pokhara and then back to the capital.

Enfielders are inspired by all sorts of things-Robert Persig's still-bestselling book, stories of Hell's Angels and their Harley-Davidsons or the seductiveness of just freewheeling in Easy Rider, and come in all shapes, sizes and persuasions-backpackers on a cheap tour of the subcontinent, writers longing for isolation, musicians, Rastafari, people who haven't discovered their calling yet, but just know they will on the open road, with the wind in their hair. And in this spirit of openness-and because they really, truly want biking to catch on as an adventure sport in Nepal, they are inviting anyone with a 350 cc bike, Enfield or otherwise, to join them for the Nepal Peace Ride 2002.

The South Asian love for the Enfield began back in 1954, when the Indian government ordered 800 Royal Enfields for its army, a factory in Chennai soon began producing them and since then, the region has been hooked. Enfields have been around in Nepal as long as anyone can remember, this is the first time that enthusiasts have actually organised themselves to form a group and travel out on organised rides. The Himalayan Enfielders was set up last September with 19 riders. "The idea was to bring together Enfield bikers so we could have a proper club and maybe promote motorbike rides as a form of adventure tourism in Nepal," says Binod Chettri, one of the founders.

The group today has a workshop in Lazimpat specially dedicated to Enfield and other heavy motorbikes-with affectionate and ironic names such as Thaal and Ramesh the Reliable, even their best friends will tell you that these hothouse flowers of the motorcycle world need constant care and attention. The workshop has also been serving as a clubhouse of sorts, where members toy with their toys, plan the next ride, or just sit there with that glazed, ecstatic expression incomprehensible to outsiders. Over the past few months, the group has already made several day rides, including to Kakani, Sunakoti, Phulchowki, Nagarjun, Bhakundabesi and a memorable one to The Last Resort in Barabise, on which they accompanied 22 Australian bikers and their 16 Enfields in the spirit of biking brotherhood.

This time around, entourage will also consist of support vehicles with trained mechanics and spares, and a bus for friends, family and well-wishers who can't bring themselves to sit on the back of one of these boneshakers. The group will stop for lunch at the Kurintar Riverside Spring Resort along the Tribhuvan Highway, 90 km from Kathmandu, and continue after that towards Pokhara, a further 110 km away. On Day Two, 10 February, the tour heads to Bandipur Mountain Resort, 80 km from Pokhara and later back towards Kathmandu. The registration fee for a 350cc or more bike is Rs 500, which buys the intrepid biker everything from food and lodging, to maintenance for the two-day trip. The weak-willed on the bus will pay Rs 1,500 for all the above.

So, if you're already a bike enthusiast, or even just wake up on Saturday, 9 February wanting to see what the big hype is all about, join the Enfielders and spread the message of peace, noise and motorcyles. And remember not to, at any point, call it a motorbike rally: the organisers were told by our guardians of peace that under the emergency "all rallies are banned."


LATEST ISSUE
638
(11 JAN 2013 - 17 JAN 2013)


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