Nepali Times
Review
Casa de Cass

SOMEPLACE ELSE by MARCO POLLO


Casa de Cass, steps from the UN offices in Lalitpur, houses an assortment of continental delicacies, a bar of baked goodies and coffee brewed to order in a tasteful nook—in effect becoming the UN's unofficial water cooler.

With a wide list of soups, sweet and savory crêpes, full salads, quiches, pastas and sandwiches, Cass does brunch and lunch best.

Its rendition of the French onion soup tastes true to its origins, but a cheese cap and a quick broil under a salamander for that crispy edge would be perfect.

The grilled cheese, one of the more affordable bites on the menu at Rs 195, is served on white, brown or focaccia and evenly toasted. Each sandwich comes with helpings of mixed greens and potato salad.

MARCO POLO
Its recommended dinner items, however, need much tweaking. The skewered tenderloin was mediocre. Grill marks were faint and the meat, hardly seared. My request for medium-rare ended up well done, tough and a bit dry, and the 'unique spicy peppercorn sauce' resembled a marinara sauce.

The sage chicken, bacon-wrapped and topped with cream, was well-cooked but the sauce was unevenly emulsified leaving traceable puddles of butter. Sides to the dishes were uniform: steamed carrots and broccoli, sautéed zucchini and tater tots.

For the price, variation would be appreciated: what about a gratin to the chicken or a garlic mash to the tenderloin? The complimentary mixed green salad with a light herb dressing and blanched almonds are a nice touch.

Desserts vary daily at Cass guaranteeing freshly baked surprises like the pineapple upside-down cake, a warm, heavenly slice of buttery pound cake topped (or rather bottomed) with pineapple slices and a walnut crumble—superb.

With a soundtrack tuned to the likes of the Temper Trap, Cass sounds like a hipster hangout. But its understated, rustic design (real hardwood floors, a chest doubling as a coffee table, bar stools that line the window front, inviting settees and comfortable fauteuils) and prices to match beckon a quality suggestive of a gentleman's parlor. Bring out the Cubans!

But don't be intimidated by the cravats and ascots. No matter the agenda, Cass sets up an ideal spot for a coffee date, a lunch meeting or a Russian novel.

Escape the UN House, look left and right before crossing and halt just before the Bakery Café



LATEST ISSUE
638
(11 JAN 2013 - 17 JAN 2013)


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