Ignominiously renamed Jhamel, the area between Central Zoo and Pulchok sees a new restaurant pop up almost every month. While there are some noteworthy eateries, there are others that just do not pass, food or service wise. To make things worse, most of these places are ridiculously over-priced and the owners seem to believe that if they spend millions on decor, the terrible food they serve will be graciously overlooked by patrons.

PRAMOD SHRESTHA Chicken a La Kiev comes with mash potatoes and vegetables.

So when I found out about Backyard, my initial reaction was 'Oh probably another over-priced, over-hyped, restaurant in Jhamsikhel which in all likelihood serves bad food'. However, I am happy to admit that my predictions were completely misplaced.

Backyard is unassuming, yet inviting. Leave all your pretensions at the door and find yourself a comfortable corner and just relax. As one regular told me, this is one of the few joints around town that resembles an American bar. You can sit at the bar and watch the game on TV, or just sit by yourself and nobody will disturb you, or strike up a conversation with a willing stranger.

'What is alu', potato wedges fried with cumin and green chilies.

This is not a place that demands you to dress up and be seen with the 'right' people. You could enter in your pyjamas and nobody will care or judge. Its this nonchalance that keeps young Kathmandu residents coming back for more.

And when I say young I don't mean irritating young teens who speak accented Nepali at the top of their lungs and indulge in very public displays of affection. There are students and professionals, both Nepali and expats looking to end their day with a relaxing drink and bits and bites before heading home.

Wanton Soup, a garlicky flavour broth.

Though Spain holds the honour of inventing the platter of appetisers served with alcohol, tapas culture is native to Nepal as well, as manyNepalis indulge in snacks and alcohol after office hours and then head home for their main meal. And Backyard provides an array of appetisers, ranging from the usual momos and fried meat to the intriguing 'what is alu'.

'What is alu' (Rs 130) is a plate of potato wedges fried with whole cumin and green chilies that goes down well with Backyard's hot rum punch. We also had the Wanton Soup (Rs 180), a warm broth with strong garlicky flavour that is nourishing and perfect for the season. The shaphaleys and momos are a big hit with Backyard's regulars, but we picked the Chicken a La Kiev (Rs 350) instead. The outside was a tad too enthusiastically fried and tasted charred in parts, but once we carved into the meat, the butter gushed out onto the mashed potatoes. The flesh was fresh and moist, but it could been more flavourful with the addition of some pepper and a dash of herbs.

The food, like the place is modest and simple, which is not a complaint and the price incredibly reasonable. The owners made a conscious decision to stick with dishes that their cook knows how to prepare well and their decision has definitely paid off. Don't go expecting a fine dining experience and you won't be disappointed.
Ruby Tuesday

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