MARCO POLO

A flip through Trisara's menu presents token characters from the typical Kathmandu supper club like American Chopsuey, chicken chilly, sadhekos, pakodas, and tempuras, which make us wonder, "What's new?"

The recently opened Trisara in Lazimpat risks running up against the humdrum of the 'restro lounge': a garden patio, coffee tables, bolstered settees, a gamut of drinks and quick appetizers and live music. But after further inspection of novel dishes and flavorsome classics, Trisara proves a worthy contender for a night out on the town.

Among the non-vegetarian options, the Flambéed Prawns (Rs 280), sautéed in Mekong Whiskey and basil leaves and featured on a bed of bok choy, are a savory complement to a stiff drink, but a bit on the salty end. Drink up.

Of the many chicken options, the Crispy Chicken (Rs 175) marries strips of meat tendered and fried to an even crisp and dotted with a garlic chili blend. Likewise, for vegetarians, the Crispy Garlic Mushroom with Garlic Potato (Rs 130) stirs up a stinking, delicious delight that would stave off even the most dogged necker.

For chow, Khau Soi (chicken Rs 250; shrimp variation, Rs 300) is pure comfort. The Thai-Burmese chicken dish is simmered in a thin coconut curry, similar to massaman or yellow curry, and served with a separate bowl of plain egg noodles. The popular street food is a perfect merienda, a light afternoon snack to sate that pre-prandial craving.

Reliable standards for carousing and nibbling at good prices suggest a prospective happy hour haunt. But still in its nascent stage, at what was the former Royal Hana Garden (vestiges remain like a copse of bamboo trees and an empty hot tub), Trisara has a chance to better showcase its culinary potential, namely in its main courses, and redeem its edenic subtitle: a 'Garden in Heaven'.

Pass the Hotel Shanker going north on Lazimpat and right into the garden driveway