PICS: MARCO POLO

What makes Dwarika's latest edacious undertaking distinct from other Japanese restaurants in Kathmandu is showmanship. Like the jo-ha-kyu of Kabuki theatre, Mako's manager Mako san presents a five-act production in an intimate setting that savors of how the Japanese do fine dining.

In harmony with Dwarika's blend of traditional accents and modern luxuries, Mako's is well-designed and carved from wood: bamboo staves aloft complement a typical kaidan-tansu or step-case and walls bedecked in shoji, the traditional wooden lattice work of opaque paper tiles. Rare tapis samples of matrimonial kimonos adorn the interior and call attention to the servers' patterned costumes sewn from loose Japanese textiles.

Jo (Opening). After complements of a wet towel and a warm cup of green tea so gingerly poured, an amuse-bouche of sautéed aubergine strewn in a soy, ginger, and fish stock reduction serves an auspicious introduction. A cloudy orb of miso, fermented soybeans and barley, sits undisturbed at the bottom of a soup bowl only then to be stirred and sipped and ends the first course.

Ha (Plot and climax). A simple but fresh maki of diced cucumber and avocado, the California Roll has gained popularity even in Japan, securing its entry in the standard Japanese bill of faire. The dainty pinches daubed with equally delicate fish eggs are exquisite. Stagehands quickly change the porcelain scenery, and enters Mako san's vegetable tempura battered with her own recipe, perfectly executed. Tender legumes encrusted with a light, flaky coating outdo other versions in the city that are either too doughy or drenched in oil. But without question, the prima donna was the show-stopping nine-piece sashimi at Rs 1400. Flown from Thailand, fresh cuts of raw tuna, mackerel and salmon deliver a sheer delicacy.

Kyu (Denouement). In Kabuki the finale is usually short, imparting a swift and gratifying conclusion. In keeping dessert at Mako's like the organic maccha green tea ice cream or its tempura counterpart (a lighter interpretation of the American fried vanilla ice cream) cleanses the palate with a sweet and sapid ending.

Mako's at Dwarika's joins a list of exceptional additions to Kathmandu's table, highly priced, but nonetheless deserving of an encore.

Get thee to Dwarika's in Old Baneshwor, upon entry gravitate left towards the gravel of the Zen-inspired patio