Nepali Times
Travel
Head for the hills!



PICS: KIRAN PANDAY

FAR FROM THE MADDING CROWD: Tengboche monastery in the shadow of the mountains (above); a crimson sunset as seen from Nagarkot (below); and a lake of the deepest blue, Phewa in Pokhara. (down below)

There are many reasons to get out of Kathmandu during Dasain: to avoid seeing buffalos being decapitated en masse, to avoid meeting obnoxious relatives, to breathe oxygen, or if you are UNMIN, to take a break because elections have been postponed.

So, head for the hills. Get away from this filthy, polluted, demo-infested city of endless petrol lines. In fact, if you don't feel like coming back stay there and find a new occupation.

Whatever your reason for wanting to leave, Dasain is ideally timed to coincide with the post-monsoon season which is the best time to see Nepal in all its glory. The combination of lush green with white mountains and turquoise skies are what make October and November unique.

Now that you've decided to go, the question is where to? Here are some unsolicited suggestions from Nepali Times staffers.

Nagarkot: The easiest, most accessible and most touristy of the hill stations outside Kathmandu. Despite noisy city picnickers and swarms of Korean tourists trying to catch a glimpse of the sun rising from behind Chomolungma, the mountain vistas still make Nagarkot stunning and you understand why this place is enduringly popular. Some hotels like Club Himalaya are world class but there are also Thamel-style lodges or tranquil meditation places like The Farm House.

Dhulikhel: the same mountain vistas as Nagarkot but with a diversity of sightseeing including forest hikes, Namo Boudhha monastery, historic Panauti and great mountain biking trails including the return to Kathmandu via Lakuri Bhanjyang. Dhulikhel is only 30km from Kathmandu and is the best managed town in Nepal and has emerged as a tourism, education and medical centre.

Hatiban: This is Nagarkot without the crowds and the views are even more superb (including a much better angle on Chomolungma) with Kathmandu's urban cauldron spread out below you. There are plenty of ridge walks up to Champadebi and Chandragiri from where the views are stupendous, covering nearly 500km of horizon from Dhaulagiri to Makalu. Hatiban Resort is the only hotel here and has individual bungalows and decent rooms.

Daman: At 3,200m above sea level at Sim Bhanjyang on the old Kathmandu-Hetauda highway, Daman is an ideal getaway. Because of the altitude, Daman offers an unparalleled view of the entire Himalaya. Anywhere else in the world, Tribhuban Highway would be called a Scenic Parkway and would be a tourist attraction all by itself. The comfortable and quiet Everest Panoramic Resort is the best place to stay.

Tengboche: You have only one week, and you don't know when you'll be in Nepal again but want to get up close and personal with the highest mountain in the world. Then it\'s Tengboche for you. Fly to Lukla and walk via Namche to the monastery township that is one of the most spectacular places on earth not just for its views of Ama Dablam, Chomolungma and Thamserku but also the spiritual energy that the place exudes. Three days up two days stay there to explore side valleys and two days down to Lukla for the flight back.

Manang: One of the most scenic trans-Himalayan Valleys in Nepal. Charter flights from Pokhara and Kathmandu need to be booked early, but worth the trouble because you are rubbing your nose against the north wall of the Annapurnas. Most people just make Manang a transit point on the way to Thorung La, but Manang is a destination in its own right with comfortable clean lodges, good food and exhilirating walks up the Gangapurna glacier or Tilicho Lake.

Langtang: The closest wild place from Kathmandu. Ride and walk to Kyangjin in three days and spend a whole week exploring this awesome valley for which only the term 'out of this world' would suffice. There is plenty to see: the fluted and delicate face of Gang Chenpo, Langtang's massive face towering over the valley and at night the mountains all glow in the moonlight. If you don't want to waste time walking up to Langtang, getting four people together and hiring a helicopter for the 25 minute flight to Kyangjin can be surprisingly affordable.

Kalinchok: One of the best and least-known walks near Kathmandu that takes you to a 3,900m mountain shrine. No tourists, no lodges, and strictly camping all the way. Take the bus to Charikot and it's a two-day walk to the summit from the top of which is a staggering view of Gauri Shankar. One gets a distinct feeling that this is not a trek but a pilgrimage.

Pokhara: The town is a destination by itself, but also a springboard for fabulous walks in the surrounding mountains. This is the most vertical place in Nepal: from this tropical valley 800m above sea level the Annapurnas rise to above 8,000m within a mere distance of less than 30km. The effect is awe-inspiring. Try the ultra-light sightseeing flights for a better perspective, or head up to Poon Hill, Sikles, or even the ridge above the Peace Stupa for great views unparalleled on earth.

Chitwan: One shouldn't take 'heading for the hills' too literally because there is always Nepal's most famous national park: Chitwan. Sauraha is a bit scruffy, but there are the upmarket hotels inside the park that offer elephant-back safaris and nature walks at one of the world's most-successful conservation stories. Chitwan's tourism is recovering from the conflict years and every visitor dollar counts in this park and other eco-tourism reserves
in Nepal.


Dasain Getaways:

Dhulikhel Mountain Resort
Single room $45, double $55, with accomodation, breakfast, dinner and nature walk, transportation available on request. 4420774

Dhulikhel Lodge Resort, Dhulikhel
Dasain Package Rs 2,100 per couple with complimentary snacks, dinner, accommodation and breakfast. 4222389

Hotel Trek-O-Tel, Pokhara
Rs 1,200 nett for accommodation and breakfast. Reservation available c/o Ambassador Hotel. 061-528996, 4410432

Fulbari Resort and Spa, Pokhara
Rs 10,999 for Nepali double, $219 for expat double, two days and three nights package, including transportation, drinks, tennis and swimming.

Club Himalaya, Nagarkot
Chiso Chiso Hawa Ma package Rs 3,400 plus vat for double, Rs 2,800 plus vat for single, includes one night accommodation, dinner, breakfast and shuttle service. 6680080, 4410432

Tiger Tops Karnali, Bardiya National Park
$299 nett per person for two nights and three days, includes accommodation,all meals, wildlife activities and transportation to and from Nepalganj. 4361500



LATEST ISSUE
638
(11 JAN 2013 - 17 JAN 2013)


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